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Education›Lab Grown Diamond Guidance›Princess Cut Diamond — The Complete Guide
Lab Grown Diamond GuidanceFenora Guide8 min read

Princess cut diamond — the complete guide.

The princess cut is a square brilliant-cut diamond with sharp corners and maximum sparkle. Second only to round brilliant in popularity, the princess delivers the brilliance of a round in a geometric square format. This guide covers everything about the princess cut.

01

What makes the princess cut distinctive

The princess cut was developed in the 1960s and refined through the 1980s. It is a square or very slightly rectangular diamond with sharp corners, cut with brilliant-style faceting that produces maximum sparkle in a square format. The princess has the visual geometric precision of a square with the light performance approach of a round brilliant.

The four sharp corners of the princess cut are its defining characteristic — and its primary practical consideration. Sharp corners concentrate stress and are the most vulnerable areas of the stone. Corner prong protection is essential in any princess cut setting.

Key princess cut characteristics
  • Square or very slightly rectangular outline — ideal L:W ratio 1.00–1.05
  • Sharp corners — require corner prong protection in settings
  • Brilliant-cut faceting — maximum sparkle in square format
  • More colour visible than round — the faceting is less effective at hiding warmth than round brilliant
  • No bow tie effect — the square proportions avoid this
  • Slightly lower than round brilliant in apparent size per carat — weight is in the depth
“The princess is for buyers who want a square diamond with maximum brilliance. The sharp corners make it immediately distinctive from the cushion — more geometric, more contemporary, more architectural.”
02

Princess vs cushion — the two square options

FeaturePrincess CutCushion Cut
CornersSharp — requires protectionRounded — softer
Aesthetic characterGeometric, contemporary, architecturalSoft, vintage-adjacent, romantic
Sparkle styleBright, numerous small flashesChunkier, warmer flashes depending on variant
Colour visibilitySlightly more than cushion — less forgivingGood colour hiding in modified brilliant variant
Setting requirementCorner prongs essentialStandard 4-prong works well
Bow tieNoneRare in standard cushion
Most popular forContemporary aesthetic, maximum precisionRomantic, vintage-adjacent aesthetic
03

Princess cut settings — corner prong requirement

The four sharp corners of a princess cut are the areas most vulnerable to chipping under impact. Corner prongs — prongs that specifically cup and protect each corner — are essential in princess cut settings.

Princess cut setting options
  • 4-corner prong solitaire — the standard. One prong at each corner, protecting all four points. The most classic princess cut setting
  • Bezel setting — the continuous metal rim protects all four corners completely. Maximum protection for active lifestyles
  • Halo — a square halo around a princess cut creates a very coherent, architectural result
04

Princess questions

Does the princess cut look larger than round?
No — the princess cut typically appears slightly smaller than a round brilliant of the same carat weight because the depth percentage is higher, concentrating weight below the girdle rather than in the outline.This is the opposite of oval and pear, which appear larger than round per carat.
Is the princess cut more affordable than round?
Yes — princess cuts are typically 10–25% less expensive than round brilliants of the same carat weight, colour and clarity. This is because less rough diamond is wasted in cutting a square outline than a round one.
What colour grade is recommended for princess cut?
G or better in white metal. The princess cut is slightly less effective at hiding colour than round brilliant — the faceting is different and warmth can be more visible. H colour works well in yellow or rose gold.
Melbourne client care · Made in Surat

Choosing a princess cut diamond? Ask Yash Chandpara.

Book a free online consultation. Yash Chandpara shows princess and cushion cut side by side on screen so the character difference is immediately clear.