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Education›Engagement Ring Guidance›Diamond Shapes Explained
Engagement Ring GuidanceFenora Guide13 min read

Diamond shapes explained.

Every diamond shape available at Fenora — from the classic round brilliant to the Dutch Marquise, Hexagone, Portuguese, Lozenge and beyond. Each shape has a completely different character, a different effect on the hand and different considerations for setting style and cut quality. This is the complete guide to all 15 shapes.

01

Shape vs cut — understanding the difference

Shape and cut are two different things. Shape refers to the outline of the diamond — round, oval, pear, emerald. Cut refers to the quality of the faceting — how precisely the stone has been worked so that light performs as it should.

Every shape can be cut well or cut poorly. The IGI cut grade of Excellent applies specifically to round brilliant cuts — the only shape for which industry-standard cut quality ranges are fully published. For all other shapes (fancy shapes), cut quality is assessed through the specific proportions and through visual examination in video under controlled lighting. Yash Chandpara assesses every fancy-shape stone in video before presenting it in a consultation.

Key terms for understanding shape
  • Brilliant cut — triangular and kite-shaped facets radiating from the centre. Creates maximum brilliance and fire. Round, oval, pear, cushion, marquise, radiant and heart are brilliant cuts
  • Step cut — parallel rectangular facets in a staircase pattern. More mirror-like than brilliant. Emerald and Asscher are step cuts
  • Mixed cut — combines step-cut and brilliant-cut elements. Radiant and Portuguese are examples
  • Length-to-width ratio — the relationship between the longer and shorter dimension of a fancy shape. Determines how elongated or compact the stone appears on the hand
“The shape is the most personal choice in the ring. It is the first thing people notice. Fenora offers 15 shapes — from the classic round to the rare hexagone, lozenge and Dutch marquise — so the right shape is always available.”
— Yash Chandpara, Founder
02

The classic shapes — round, oval and cushion

The three shapes that account for the majority of engagement ring purchases worldwide.

Round Brilliant
The most popular — 58 facets
Maximum brilliance and fire. The most thoroughly researched and optimised shape in existence. The round brilliant cut was scientifically developed to maximise light return through the crown. IGI gives round brilliants the most precise cut quality grading. The most versatile shape — suits every setting style and every aesthetic. Approximately 60% of all engagement rings use a round brilliant centre stone. Ideal for: any hand type, any setting style.
Oval
Romantic and elongating — brilliant cut
The oval brilliant has the same 58 facets as a round but in an elongated shape. Appears 10–15% larger than a round of the same carat weight due to its elongated outline. Significantly elongates and slims the finger — the most flattering shape for shorter fingers. A bow-tie effect (a dark shadow across the middle) can affect some oval cuts — always assess in video before purchasing. Ideal length-to-width ratio: 1.30–1.50.
Cushion
Soft square — vintage and romantic
A square or slightly rectangular shape with rounded corners, cut as a brilliant. Warm, vintage-adjacent character. Available in standard cushion (larger facets, chunkier look) and cushion modified brilliant (smaller facets, more sparkle). Suits pavé halos and split shank settings particularly well. Ideal length-to-width: 1.00–1.10 for square cushion.
03

The elongated shapes — pear, marquise, Dutch marquise and elongated cushion

Elongated shapes create the most dramatic finger-lengthening effect. Each has a specific character and setting requirement.

Pear
Teardrop — the most romantic
The rounded end faces the palm, the pointed tip faces the fingernail. Dramatically elongates the finger. The most romantic of all diamond shapes. The pointed tip requires a V-prong or bezel for protection. Bow-tie effect can affect some pear cuts — assess in video. Ideal length-to-width: 1.50–1.75. Can be worn pointing up (traditional) or set east-west (contemporary).
Marquise
Maximum elongation — dramatic
Pointed at both ends, widest in the middle. The most elongating shape available. Creates significant finger-length illusion. Both pointed tips require V-prong or bezel protection. Strong bow-tie can affect some marquise cuts. Often set east-west for a contemporary look. Ideal length-to-width: 1.85–2.10.
Dutch Marquise
Wider marquise — softer points
A variation of the marquise with wider body proportions and less pronounced points. The Dutch marquise has a softer, more rounded character than the standard marquise while retaining the directional elongation of the marquise format. The softer points are slightly less vulnerable than standard marquise tips. Ideal length-to-width: 1.50–1.75.
Elongated Cushion
Extended cushion — the best of both
A cushion cut with a higher length-to-width ratio than a standard cushion — typically 1.15–1.30. Elongates the finger more than a square cushion while retaining the soft rounded corners and warm brilliant-cut character of the cushion shape. A very popular contemporary choice that combines the romance of the cushion with the flattering elongation of oval and pear.
Lozenge
Diamond outline — geometric and bold
The lozenge (also called diamond-cut) has a rhombus outline — four equal sides, pointed at the top and bottom and on both sides. The most geometric of all elongated shapes. Usually set point-up (one point facing the fingernail). Very distinctive and bold — an immediate statement of individual aesthetic. Suits architectural and Art Deco inspired settings.
Heart
Romantic symbol — the most personal
A brilliant-cut diamond in a heart outline. The most directly romantic of all diamond shapes — the only shape that is also a universal symbol of love. Requires precise cutting to achieve a clean heart outline with a visible cleft at the top. Suits prong settings where the heart outline is fully visible. Approximately 1.00 length-to-width ratio for the most balanced heart.
04

The architectural shapes — emerald, Asscher and princess

Step-cut and geometric shapes with a distinctly sophisticated, architectural character.

Emerald Cut
Architectural — open, mirror-like
Rectangular step-cut with truncated corners. Open parallel facets create a mirror-like effect rather than the sparkle of a brilliant cut. The most sophisticated shape. Shows colour and clarity more visibly than brilliant cuts — choose G or better colour and VS2 or VS1 clarity. The most Art Deco in character of the mainstream shapes. Ideal length-to-width: 1.30–1.50.
Asscher
Square step-cut — Art Deco
A square step-cut with an octagonal outline from the truncated corners. Very similar to the emerald cut but in a square format. The most Art Deco of all diamond shapes — its octagonal silhouette is a period hallmark. Open step-cut facets show colour and clarity — choose G or better and VS2 or better. Ideal length-to-width: 1.00–1.05.
Princess
Square brilliant — contemporary
A square shape with brilliant-cut faceting. Maximum sparkle in a square format. The four sharp corners require prong protection — corner prongs essential. More contemporary than cushion. The step between brilliant sparkle and step-cut sophistication in a square format. Ideal length-to-width: 1.00–1.05.
05

The distinctive shapes — radiant, hexagone and Portuguese

Three shapes that occupy a distinctive position in the Fenora collection — each offering something genuinely different from the mainstream options.

Radiant
Brilliant facets in a rectangular form
The radiant cut combines the rectangular or square outline of the emerald cut with brilliant-cut faceting underneath. The result is maximum brilliance in a rectangular shape — all the sparkle of a round brilliant in the elongated proportions of an emerald cut. Available in square (1.00–1.05 length-to-width) and elongated rectangular (up to 1.35) formats. Hides colour very effectively — H or even I colour looks excellent in a radiant.
Hexagone
Six-sided — geometric and unique
The hexagone (hexagonal diamond) has six equal sides in a regular hexagonal outline. A completely non-standard shape with strong geometric character. Very unusual as an engagement ring centre stone — immediately distinctive and personal. Suits bezel and geometric settings naturally. The six-sided outline creates strong associations with nature — honeycomb, snowflakes, crystalline structure. A statement of individual aesthetic that no mainstream shape provides.
Portuguese
Exceptional brilliance — many facets
The Portuguese cut is one of the most faceted of all diamond cuts — significantly more facets than a standard brilliant cut, arranged in a complex pattern that creates exceptional light dispersion. The result is a diamond with extraordinary fire and brilliance — more complex light play than a standard round brilliant. Available in round outline. For buyers who prioritise maximum light performance above all other characteristics.
06

Shapes and hand size — what suits different hands

The same diamond shape can look very different on different hands. Understanding the relationship between shape and hand type helps buyers choose with confidence.

Hand TypeShapes That Suit BestWhyShapes to Consider Carefully
Shorter, wider fingersOval, pear, marquise, Dutch marquise, elongated cushionElongated shapes create a longer visual impression of the fingerRound, cushion, princess, asscher — shapes without strong directional elongation
Longer, slim fingersAny shape works. Emerald, asscher, cushion, hexagone particularly beautifulLonger fingers provide the canvas for every shape including the most geometricNothing to avoid — longer fingers are most versatile
Wider handsEast-west oval, elongated cushion, radiant, lozengeWider shapes work with wider hand proportionsVery narrow marquise can appear proportionally small
Small handsOval, pear — appear larger than carat weight suggestsElongated shapes read as larger on smaller handsVery large stones can appear unbalanced
Any handRound, oval — the most universally flatteringBoth work across all hand types and finger lengthsNeither is wrong for any hand
07

Apparent size by shape — what looks largest per carat

Different shapes of the same carat weight appear very different in size on the hand. This is because carat is a weight measurement, not a size measurement — and different shapes distribute weight differently across their surface area and depth.

Relative apparent size (largest to smallest visual impression)
  • Largest apparent — Marquise, Dutch marquise, pear, elongated cushion, lozenge, oval. These elongated shapes cover the most finger area for their carat weight
  • Mid-range — Round, hexagone, radiant, cushion, heart. Appear at or near their actual measured size
  • Smallest apparent — Asscher, princess, emerald. Weight concentrated in depth rather than spread across surface area. These shapes often appear smaller than their carat weight
The practical implication
  • A 1.0ct pear or marquise appears similar in surface area to a 1.3–1.5ct round
  • An elongated cushion at 1.0ct appears similar in size to a standard cushion at 1.2ct
  • Buyers who want maximum visual size per dollar of budget should prioritise elongated shapes
08

Setting styles by shape — what works together

Every shape has setting styles that work best for it. This table is a complete reference.

ShapeBest SettingsV-Prong Needed?Notes
RoundAny — 4-prong, 6-prong, bezel, haloNoThe most versatile shape — every setting works
OvalProng, halo, bezel, east-west bezelNoFollow the oval outline for any halo. East-west setting very contemporary
Cushion4-prong, halo (cushion-shaped), pavé bandNoCushion-shaped halo more cohesive than round halo around cushion
Princess4-corner prong, bezelNoCorner prongs essential to protect sharp corners
Emerald4-corner prong, bezel, geometric haloNoClean settings suit the architectural character. Avoid busy pavé
Radiant4-corner prong, bezel, haloNoSuits both square and elongated halo configurations
Pear3+V-prong, bezel, haloYes at tipV-prong or bezel essential at the pointed tip
MarquiseV-prong both ends, bezelYes at both tipsV-prong or bezel essential at both points. East-west very distinctive
Asscher4-corner prong, bezel, geometric haloNoOctagonal bezel particularly period-authentic
Heart5-prong (V at cleft), bezelYes at pointProngs must show the heart outline clearly. V or cleft prong at the top
Dutch MarquiseV-prong both ends, bezelYes at both tipsSimilar to marquise but tips less acute — slightly more forgiving
HexagoneBezel (most natural), 6-prongNoBezel follows the hexagonal outline perfectly. Very contemporary
PortugueseRound prong, bezel, round haloNoStandard round settings — the Portuguese cut is round outline
Elongated Cushion4-prong, halo (oval or elongated)NoOval-outline halos suit the elongated format better than square halos
LozengeBezel, 4-corner prongYes at top and bottom pointsPoints at top and bottom need protection. Bezel the most natural setting
09

The Bow-Tie effect — which shapes are affected and how to avoid it

The bow-tie effect is a dark shadow across the middle of certain elongated fancy-shaped diamonds. It is caused by light not being reflected back through the top of the stone in the central area, creating a shadow that resembles a bow-tie or butterfly.

Shapes affected by bow-tie
  • Always assess in video — oval, pear, marquise, Dutch marquise, elongated cushion, lozenge. All elongated brilliant-cut shapes have some degree of bow-tie — the severity varies from invisible to very prominent
  • Not affected — round, princess, emerald, asscher, radiant, hexagone, heart (heart has different shadow characteristics but not a bow-tie in the traditional sense)
How Fenora addresses bow-tie
  • Yash Chandpara shows every oval, pear, marquise, Dutch marquise and elongated cushion stone in video during the consultation specifically so bow-tie can be assessed before purchase
  • Only stones with faint or invisible bow-tie under most lighting conditions are presented
  • A faint bow-tie that is visible only in specific lighting conditions is not a compromise — it is a normal characteristic of a well-cut elongated shape
10

Choosing your shape — questions answered

Common questions about choosing from the Fenora shape collection.

How do I choose between 15 shapes?
Start by eliminating based on character: do you want maximum brilliance (brilliant cuts) or sophisticated mirror-like depth (step cuts)? Do you want elongation (pear, marquise, oval, elongated cushion) or geometry (hexagone, princess, asscher)? Does she have a clear existing preference from jewellery she already wears? The consultation narrows the choice quickly with stones shown on screen.
Are the rarer shapes (hexagone, Portuguese, lozenge, Dutch marquise) more expensive?
Not significantly. The price is driven primarily by carat weight, cut quality, colour and clarity — the same 4C parameters as any diamond. Some specialty cuts command a slight premium for the additional cutting complexity but this is modest relative to total ring cost.
Can any of the 15 shapes be used in a custom design?
Yes. Every shape in the Fenora collection is available in a custom design brief. The shape choice is the starting point for the custom design — Our design team designs the setting around the specific outline of the shape chosen.
Which shapes are most unusual as engagement rings?
Hexagone, Portuguese, lozenge and Dutch marquise are the most distinctive choices — shapes that most people will not have seen as engagement ring centre stones. They are Fenora shapes specifically because they are beautiful and because they give buyers an option that no one else has.
Can I see all 15 shapes on screen during a consultation?
Yes. Yash Chandpara can show examples of every shape in the collection on screen during the consultation — including the rarer shapes. Seeing them in video under controlled lighting makes the choice significantly easier than looking at photographs.
Melbourne client care · Made in Surat

See all 15 shapes with Yash Chandpara on screen.

Book a free online consultation. Yash Chandpara shows every shape in the Fenora collection in video under controlled lighting — from the classic round to the hexagone and Portuguese — so you can find the right one.