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Education›Lab Grown Diamond Guidance›Marquise Diamond — The Complete Guide

Lab Grown Diamond GuidanceFenora Guide8 min read

Marquise diamond — the complete guide.

The marquise is the most elongating diamond shape available. Pointed at both ends, widest in the middle — the marquise creates more finger-lengthening illusion per carat than any other cut. This guide covers everything about the marquise diamond.

What makes the marquise distinctive

The marquise cut is an elongated brilliant-cut diamond with pointed ends at both the top and bottom. Its oval-like body and two sharp points create the most dramatically elongating shape in the Fenora collection. The same carat weight in a marquise covers significantly more finger area than in a round — creating a visual presence per carat that no other shape matches.

The name marquise comes from the French court — legend holds that Louis XV commissioned a diamond cut to mimic the shape of the lips of the Marquise de Pompadour. The marquise has been in use as a fine jewellery cut since the 18th century.

Key marquise characteristics

Ideal length-to-width ratio: 1.85–2.10
Both tips require V-prong or bezel protection
Bow tie effect: present — always assess in video
Maximum finger elongation of any shape
Can be worn vertical (tip-to-tip across the finger) or east-west (tips pointing left and right)
Ideal for buyers who want maximum visual presence per carat

“The marquise is for buyers who know what they want and are comfortable with a bold choice. It is not subtle — and that is exactly the point.”
— Yash Chandpara, Founder

Marquise proportions and Length-to-Width ratio

The length-to-width ratio is the most important proportion decision for a marquise — it determines how elongated the stone appears.

L:W Ratio	Visual Character	Best For
1.70–1.85	Slightly shorter — rounder, less dramatic elongation	Buyers who want elongation without the most extreme format
1.85–2.10	Classic marquise — the ideal range	The best balance of elongation and stone width. Most popular ratio
2.10–2.40	Very elongated — very dramatic elongation	Buyers who want the most extreme elongation possible
Above 2.40	Extremely elongated — very dramatic, unusual	For very specific design briefs only

Settings for marquise cut

V-prong requirement

Both pointed tips of the marquise are vulnerable to chipping without protection
V-prongs at both ends are the standard setting approach — cupping and protecting both points while displaying the shape fully
A bezel setting completely surrounds both tips — maximum protection, very clean contemporary aesthetic

East-west marquise

Setting the marquise horizontally across the finger (long axis pointing left and right) creates a very contemporary look
The east-west marquise is one of the most popular non-traditional settings at Fenora — the elongated outline across the finger reads as bold and distinctive
A bezel east-west setting is the most architecturally clean configuration

Marquise questions

Does the marquise make fingers look longer?

Yes — more than any other shape. The elongated outline running along the finger creates a strong length illusion. This is particularly flattering on shorter fingers.

Is the bow tie bad in marquise diamonds?

The bow tie in a marquise runs across the central width. A faint bow tie is normal and acceptable in a well-cut marquise. A strong bow tie is visible in all conditions and significantly reduces the appeal of the stone. Always view in video before purchasing.

What is the ideal marquise length-to-width ratio?

1.85–2.10 is the classic range — dramatic elongation with good width. Above 2.10 is very elongated. Below 1.85 is less dramatic. The right ratio depends on the size of her hand and how much elongation she wants.

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