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Education›Gemstone Guidance›What Are Lab Grown Rubies?
Gemstone GuidanceFenora Guide11 min read

What are lab grown rubies?

Ruby is red corundum — the same mineral as sapphire, coloured red by chromium. Lab grown ruby is chemically identical to natural ruby: same hardness (9 Mohs), same vivid red colour, same optical properties. At a fraction of the price of equivalent natural rubies. This guide covers everything about lab grown rubies for fine jewellery.

01

What lab grown ruby is — red corundum

Ruby is red corundum — aluminium oxide (Al₂O₃) with chromium impurities that create its characteristic red colour. Ruby and sapphire are the same mineral. The distinction is colour only: red corundum is ruby; all other colours are sapphire. Ruby's red colour comes from chromium atoms within the crystal structure absorbing green and yellow light and emitting fluorescent red light — the same fluorescence that makes fine rubies glow from within.

A lab grown ruby is corundum grown in a laboratory with chromium introduced during the growth process to create the red colour. The result is chemically identical to natural ruby — same crystal structure, same chromium mechanism, same physical properties. What differs is the origin: laboratory growth rather than geological formation over millions of years.

Natural fine rubies with deep, vivid "pigeon's blood" red colour from Mogok, Myanmar, are among the most expensive gemstones in the world — more expensive per carat than equivalent diamonds. A 3ct Burmese pigeon's blood ruby can cost $100,000 or more. Lab grown ruby of equivalent colour quality is available at a small fraction of this price.

“Ruby is passion, love, courage — the most intensely personal of the gemstones. A deep red ruby in a ring is a statement that no diamond can make. It is unmistakable in what it communicates.”
— Yash Chandpara, Founder
02

Ruby colour — what makes a fine ruby

Colour is the dominant quality factor in ruby — far more important than clarity or cut. The most valuable ruby colour is described as "pigeon's blood" — a vivid, pure, slightly bluish red with high saturation and medium tone.

Colour QualityDescriptionVisual Character
Pigeon's bloodVivid, pure red with slight blue modifier. High saturation. Medium tone.The most intensely beautiful ruby colour. Appears to glow from within. The rarest and most valued natural ruby colour
Vivid redPure red, high saturation, no significant modifierExcellent. Immediately striking. Very beautiful.
Medium redClear red, good saturationVery good. Attractive and clearly ruby
Pinkish redRed with visible pink modifierGood but lighter. Approaches pink sapphire territory at the lighter end
Dark red / brownish redRed with dark or brownish modifierLess desirable. The colour appears muddy or dark rather than vivid
What Fenora looks for in lab grown ruby
  • Vivid to pigeon's blood colour quality — high saturation, medium to medium-dark tone, pure red or slightly bluish-red hue
  • Eye-clean clarity — lab grown rubies are produced at high clarity, generally cleaner than natural rubies which commonly contain inclusions
  • Consistent colour distribution — the red colour should be evenly distributed throughout the stone, visible from the crown in all orientations
03

Ruby in engagement rings — the bold choice

A ruby engagement ring is one of the most dramatic and personal choices available in fine jewellery. The vivid red of a quality ruby communicates passion, love and deep commitment in a way that is unambiguous — and in a way that no other stone does.

Why ruby works for engagement rings
  • The colour carries direct emotional meaning — red is universally associated with love and passion. A ruby engagement ring makes this statement with complete clarity
  • At Mohs 9, ruby is extremely durable for daily wear — second only to diamond and moissanite among commonly used engagement ring stones
  • Ruby and diamond together are one of the most classic gemstone combinations in fine jewellery — the red and white contrast is immediately striking and historically significant
  • A ruby ring is immediately distinctive — no one will have the same ring
Best settings for ruby engagement rings
  • Prong solitaire — open prongs allow maximum light into the stone from the sides, enhancing the depth and vibrancy of the red colour
  • Diamond halo — a ring of white diamonds around a ruby centre creates a powerful contrast between the vivid red and the brilliant white
  • Three-stone with diamond — ruby centre with round diamond side stones. A classic combination with centuries of precedent in fine jewellery
  • Yellow gold setting — yellow gold and ruby have a particularly warm, rich combination — the warm metal and the warm red complement each other
04

Ruby colours and metal pairings

Ruby ColourCharacterBest MetalSetting Note
Pigeon's blood / Vivid redMaximum impact — passionate, bold, unmistakableYellow gold or platinumYellow gold for warmth. Platinum for cool, dramatic contrast
Medium redBright and striking, slightly more accessibleYellow gold or white goldVersatile — suits warm and cool metals
Pinkish redSofter, more romanticRose goldThe warm pink metal and the pink-red stone create a deeply romantic combination
05

Natural vs lab grown ruby — what the difference means

Natural fine rubies with vivid pigeon's blood colour are among the rarest and most expensive gemstones in existence. Lab grown rubies make the colour accessible.

FactorNatural RubyLab Grown Ruby
Chemical compositionCorundum (Al₂O₃) with chromiumIdentical — same corundum with chromium
Hardness99 — identical
ColourVariable — fine colour is extremely rare and expensiveVivid, consistent colour grown to specification
InclusionsOften significant — fine natural rubies nearly always includedGenerally very clean — far fewer inclusions than natural
Price (1ct vivid red)$10,000–100,000+ for fine colourAccessible — fraction of natural price
Treatment90%+ of natural rubies are heat treated to improve colourNot treated — colour from growth
TraceabilityOften limitedFully traceable to growth facility
The key practical difference
  • Lab grown ruby makes the vivid red colour of a fine ruby accessible to buyers for whom natural ruby would be completely unaffordable. The colour — the reason ruby is beautiful — is available without the extraordinary rarity premium of natural stones
06

Ruby care — what your ring needs

Ruby is one of the most durable gemstones for daily wear. At Mohs 9, it is harder than any common material except diamond and moissanite.

Ruby care
  • Daily wear — fully appropriate. Mohs 9 hardness resists all everyday scratching. The stone is very robust in daily conditions
  • Monthly clean — warm water, mild dish soap, soft brush. Ruby's vivid red colour benefits significantly from cleaning — a dirty ruby can look dark and dull. Clean monthly to maintain the vibrancy of the colour
  • Remove for — heavy impact activities, bleach cleaning, chlorinated pools (same guidance as diamond — primarily to protect the setting, not the stone)
  • Annual inspection — prong check, stone security, setting condition
07

Ruby questions — answered

Is lab grown ruby real ruby?
Yes. Lab grown ruby is corundum — the same mineral as natural ruby. The chromium that creates the red colour is incorporated in the same way. The crystal structure, hardness and optical properties are identical to natural ruby.
Why is natural ruby so expensive?
Fine natural rubies with vivid pigeon's blood colour — particularly those from Mogok, Myanmar — are among the rarest gemstones in the world. The combination of the specific chromium content, geological conditions and origin that produces this colour has created extraordinary rarity. Lab grown ruby makes the same colour accessible without the rarity premium.
Can ruby be used as the sole stone or does it need diamond accents?
Both work beautifully. A ruby solitaire in a quality prong setting is a powerful, minimal choice that puts the colour at the centre entirely. Ruby with diamond accents — halo, trilogy, pavé band — creates the classic red-and-white combination. Both are available at Fenora.
Will the ruby colour fade over time?
No. The red colour of ruby — whether natural or lab grown — is determined by the chromium in the crystal structure. This is a permanent structural feature. The colour does not fade with time, light exposure or wear.
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