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Education›Gemstone Guidance›What Are Lab Grown Sapphires?
Gemstone GuidanceFenora Guide12 min read

What are lab grown sapphires?

A lab grown sapphire is real sapphire — corundum, the same mineral as natural sapphire, grown in a laboratory. The same hardness of 9 on the Mohs scale. The same vivid colour. The same optical properties. At a fraction of the price of equivalent natural sapphires. This guide explains everything about lab grown sapphires for fine jewellery.

01

What lab grown sapphires are — real corundum

Sapphire is corundum — aluminium oxide (Al₂O₃) in crystalline form. When corundum is blue, it is sapphire. When it is red, it is ruby. All other colours — pink, yellow, orange, purple, green, white — are also sapphire. The colour is determined by trace elements in the crystal: titanium and iron for blue, chromium for pink, iron for yellow.

A lab grown sapphire is the same corundum mineral grown in a controlled laboratory environment rather than forming underground over millions of years. The crystal structure is identical. The chemical composition is identical. The physical properties — hardness, refractive index, thermal conductivity — are identical. The difference is origin and, consequently, price.

Natural fine blue sapphires of deep, vivid colour are among the most valuable gemstones in the world. A natural 2ct unheated vivid blue Kashmir or Ceylon sapphire can cost $50,000 or more per carat. A lab grown 2ct vivid blue sapphire of equivalent colour quality costs a fraction of this — making the colour genuinely accessible rather than exclusive to a tiny minority of buyers.

“A lab grown sapphire is a sapphire. Same mineral, same hardness, same colour. The difference is that it grew in a laboratory in weeks rather than underground over millions of years. That difference is in the origin certificate, not in the stone itself.”
— Yash Chandpara, Founder
02

How lab grown sapphires are made — the two growth methods

Two main methods produce lab grown sapphires: the Verneuil (flame fusion) process and the hydrothermal process. Both produce genuine corundum — the same mineral as natural sapphire.

MethodHow It WorksQualityCostFenora Usage
Verneuil / Flame FusionAluminium oxide powder is melted in a flame and deposited onto a seed crystal. The crystal grows as a boule (rounded column). A fast process developed in 1902.Good colour. Slightly different internal growth patterns to natural. Very cleanLower cost — the most widely available lab grown sapphire methodNot preferred — the growth structure differs more significantly from natural sapphire
HydrothermalGrown in a high-pressure, high-temperature solution — mimicking the conditions of natural sapphire formation underground. Grows on a seed crystal over weeks.Excellent — growth structure closest to natural sapphire. Vivid, saturated colour. Very cleanHigher cost than Verneuil — longer growth timePreferred method — produces the closest quality to fine natural sapphire
Flux GrowthThe sapphire grows from a flux solution at high temperature. Produces excellent crystal quality.Very high — excellent optical quality and colourModerate to highAvailable for specific colours
03

Sapphire colours — the complete range

Sapphire is available in a wider colour range than almost any other gemstone. Every colour except red is sapphire — red corundum is ruby.

ColourCauseCharacterBest Metal
BlueTitanium and iron in the crystalThe most famous sapphire colour. Ranges from pale sky blue to deep velvety cornflower and royal blue. The richest mid-blue is the most prized.White gold or platinum — cool metal amplifies the blue. Yellow gold creates a warm contrast
PinkChromium — the same element that makes ruby redFrom very faint blush pink to vivid hot pink. Padparadscha sapphire (pink-orange) is a specific, highly prized varietyRose gold — the warm pink metal and pink stone create a deeply romantic combination
YellowIronBright, sunny yellow. Less well known than blue but very striking. The yellow ranges from lemon to deep golden amber.Yellow gold — stone and metal share the warm colour family
WhiteNo colour-causing trace elementsCompletely colourless corundum. The hardness (9) makes it very durable. Lower brilliance than diamond — a quieter stone.Any metal — most commonly white gold for the diamond-like look
Purple / VioletVanadium and chromiumDeep purple to lavender. A distinctive and beautiful choice for buyers who want something unusual and personal.White gold or platinum — cool metals suit cool purple tones
GreenIron and titaniumLess common than blue. Ranges from olive green to vivid teal-blue-green. Very distinctive.Yellow gold — the warm metal creates an interesting contrast with green
PadparadschaChromium and iron togetherPink-orange — the rarest and most prized sapphire colour. Named after the lotus flower. Very distinctive.Rose gold — the warmest metal suits the warm orange-pink colour
04

Blue sapphire — the most popular choice

Blue sapphire is the most popular coloured gemstone for engagement rings — driven significantly by the fame of the 12-carat oval blue sapphire given to Princess Diana and now worn by Catherine, Princess of Wales. That ring introduced a generation of buyers to the idea of a sapphire engagement ring.

What makes blue sapphire a compelling engagement ring choice is not just its cultural associations — it is the specific quality of its colour. A rich, velvety cornflower or royal blue has a depth and presence that is entirely different from any other gemstone. It is unambiguously blue — not a hint of blue, not a tendency toward blue, but a vivid, saturated, unmistakable blue that carries its own meaning.

What to look for in a blue sapphire
  • Hue — pure blue, or blue with a slight violet secondary hue, is the most prized. Green secondary hues reduce desirability
  • Tone — medium to medium-dark tone is optimal. Very pale sapphires lack presence. Very dark sapphires appear black in low light
  • Saturation — vivid, highly saturated blue is most valuable. Greyish or dull sapphires look washed out
  • Colour distribution — the blue should be consistent throughout the stone, visible from the crown (top) in all orientations
  • Clarity — eye-clean is the standard. Some fine silk (needle-like inclusions) is acceptable in sapphire
05

Lab grown sapphires in engagement rings — settings and styles

Lab grown sapphires can be set in every engagement ring style available for diamonds and moissanite at Fenora. Certain settings particularly suit sapphires.

Best settings for sapphire engagement rings
  • 4-prong or 6-prong solitaire — the most classic sapphire setting. Open prong settings allow maximum light into the stone from the sides, enhancing the colour and depth of the blue. The Diana-style oval sapphire in a multi-prong setting is the archetype
  • Halo — a diamond halo around a sapphire centre stone creates a striking combination of vivid colour surrounded by white brilliance. Very popular and visually impressive
  • Three-stone (trilogy) — sapphire centre with diamond side stones is a classic combination — the blue and white stones create a beautiful contrast
  • Bezel — a bezel setting provides maximum protection for the sapphire, particularly important for a stone that will be worn daily
Diamond and sapphire combinations
  • The combination of lab grown diamond and lab grown blue sapphire in the same ring — side stones, halo, pavé band — is one of the most requested at Fenora. The blue and white stones complement each other in a way that is distinctively beautiful
06

Sapphire vs diamond — the key differences

FactorLab Grown Blue SapphireLab Grown Diamond
Hardness9 — very durable for daily wear10 — the hardest material
ColourVivid blue (or other colours)Colourless to faint yellow on standard scale
Optical characterDeep colour with good brillianceMaximum brilliance and fire
IGI certificationNot typically certified by IGI (GRS or AGL for coloured stones)IGI certified — standardised quality grades
Price per caratSignificantly less than diamond60–80% less than mined diamond
What it communicatesPersonal, distinctive, colour with meaningClassic, timeless, universally recognised
Best setting metalWhite gold/platinum (blue) or rose gold (pink)Any metal — adapts to all
07

Sapphire care — what your ring needs

Sapphire is one of the hardest and most durable gemstones for daily wear. The care requirements are minimal compared to softer stones.

Sapphire care guidelines
  • Daily wear — fully appropriate for daily wear. At Mohs 9, sapphire resists scratching from all everyday materials. No removal required for normal activities
  • Monthly clean — warm water, mild dish soap and a soft brush. The same routine as diamond rings. Rinse thoroughly. The vivid colour of sapphire benefits significantly from cleaning — a dirty sapphire can look dull despite its inherent vividness
  • Remove for — heavy impact activities, bleach or strong chemical cleaning, and chlorinated pools (same guidance as diamond rings — primarily to protect the setting, not the stone)
  • Annual inspection — prong check, setting security, stone condition. The stone itself is highly durable but the setting requires routine professional inspection
The one care specific to sapphire
  • Avoid ultrasonic cleaners for sapphires with significant inclusions or fractures — the vibration can worsen existing fractures. For eye-clean lab grown sapphires (which have few inclusions), ultrasonic cleaning is generally safe — ask Fenora to confirm for your specific stone
08

Sapphire questions — answered

Is lab grown sapphire as durable as natural sapphire?
Yes. Both are corundum — the same mineral at Mohs 9. The hardness and durability are properties of the crystal structure, which is identical in both lab grown and natural sapphire.
Can sapphire be resized?
Yes. Sapphire rings can be resized using the same processes as diamond rings. The one complimentary Fenora resize within 60 days applies to sapphire rings exactly as it does to diamond rings.
What is the most popular sapphire colour at Fenora?
Blue sapphire — by a significant margin. Blue is followed by pink sapphire. Yellow, purple and padparadscha are chosen by buyers who want something more unusual and personal.
Does sapphire have an IGI certificate?
Sapphires do not receive IGI certificates in the same way as diamonds. Fenora provides full order documentation specifying the sapphire dimensions, colour description, lab grown origin and all relevant specifications. For coloured gemstones, GRS (Gemological Research Switzerland) or AGL (American Gemological Laboratories) certificates are the relevant independent quality certifications — Fenora discusses this during the consultation for specific stones.
Can I see the sapphire colour on screen before ordering?
Yes. Yash Chandpara shows every sapphire stone in controlled lighting during the consultation — this is the most important step for any coloured gemstone purchase. The colour on screen in controlled conditions is the most reliable pre-purchase assessment available.
Melbourne client care · Made in Surat

Interested in a sapphire ring? Ask Yash Chandpara.

Book a free online consultation. Yash Chandpara shows every sapphire colour on screen in controlled lighting — blue, pink, yellow, padparadscha — and helps you find the right stone and setting.