Melbourne client care · Made in Surat
Skip to content
Free guides · plain English · written by Yash Chandpara
Made to order · Free insured delivery Australia-wide over A$500
IGI & GRA certified · Lifetime warranty
Education›Lab Grown Diamond Guidance›Asscher vs Square Emerald Cut — The Difference
Lab Grown Diamond GuidanceFenora Guide8 min read

Asscher vs square emerald cut — the difference.

The Asscher cut and the square emerald cut are both square step-cut diamonds — but they are different. The Asscher has specific proportions and an octagonal outline from its deeply cropped corners. The square emerald has less cropped corners and a different facet count. This guide explains every difference.

01

The shared foundation — both are square step cuts

Both the Asscher cut and the square emerald cut are square diamonds with step-cut faceting — parallel rectangular facets arranged in steps from the girdle to the table. Both have cropped corners (unlike the sharp corners of a princess cut). Both produce the sophisticated mirror-like depth of step-cut faceting rather than the brilliant sparkle of round or oval.

The Asscher cut was developed in 1902 by the Asscher Diamond Company in Amsterdam. It was the fashionable shape of the Art Deco period and remains strongly associated with that design vocabulary. The square emerald cut is the modern adaptation — similar concept, slightly different proportions and corner cropping.

“Both are beautiful step-cut square stones. The Asscher is more octagonal and more period-authentic. The square emerald cut is more rectangular-adjacent. For most buyers the choice comes down to: do you want the most authentic Art Deco look, or do you want a slightly more modern square step cut?”
— Yash Chandpara, Founder
02

The key differences

FeatureAsscher CutSquare Emerald Cut
Corner croppingDeeply cropped — creates a clearly octagonal outlineLess deeply cropped — more rectangular at the corners
OutlineOctagonal — the eight-sided outline is immediately recognisableMore clearly square with softer corners
Facet patternSpecific "windmill" or "maze" pattern visible through the tableSimilar step facet pattern, slightly different arrangement
Period associationStrongly Art Deco — 1902–1940More contemporary — less specifically period
Ideal L:W ratio1.00–1.05 (nearly square)1.00–1.10 (square to slightly elongated)
Visibility of inclusionsHigh — step cuts show inclusions clearlyHigh — same as Asscher
Colour visibilityHigh — choose G or better in white metalHigh — same as Asscher
Setting4-corner prong or bezel — prongs at the octagonal corners4-corner prong or bezel
03

Which should you choose?

Choose Asscher when
  • You want the most authentic Art Deco aesthetic — the octagonal outline and windmill facet pattern are immediately identifiable
  • The period association matters — the Asscher cut has specific historical design vocabulary
  • You want the most distinctive of the two square step cuts
Choose Square Emerald Cut when
  • You want a square step cut without the strong period associations of the Asscher
  • A slightly more contemporary, less specifically styled approach is preferred
  • You want slightly more flexibility in L:W ratio
04

Step cut considerations for both

Colour and clarity are more important in step cuts
  • Step-cut facets are open and mirror-like — they do not break up inclusions and colour warmth the way brilliant facets do. Choose G or better in white metal. Choose VS2 or VS1 clarity (not SI1 — the open facets make inclusions more visible than in brilliant cuts)
Does either Asscher or square emerald cut have a bow tie effect?
No — the bow tie is specific to elongated brilliant cuts. Step-cut squares do not have this issue.
Can both shapes be set in a halo?
Yes — both look beautiful with a geometric halo (square or octagonal shape following the stone outline). A rectangular or octagonal halo is the most period-authentic choice for both shapes.
Melbourne client care · Made in Surat

Interested in a square step cut? Ask Yash Chandpara.

Book a free online consultation. Yash Chandpara shows Asscher and square emerald cut side by side on screen — the difference is immediately clear.