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Education›Lab Grown Diamond Guidance›How Lab Grown Diamonds Are Made
Lab Grown Diamond GuidanceFenora Guide11 min read

How lab grown diamonds are made.

Two processes produce every lab grown diamond: High Pressure High Temperature (HPHT) and Chemical Vapour Deposition (CVD). Both create genuine diamonds. This guide explains each process in detail — the science behind them, how they differ, what they produce and which Fenora uses and why.

01

The starting point — A diamond seed

Both HPHT and CVD diamond growth begin with the same thing: a diamond seed. This is a small slice of existing diamond — typically a few millimetres across — that provides the crystal template for the new diamond to grow from. The diamond seed establishes the crystal orientation and structure that the new diamond will follow as it forms.

The seed can be a natural diamond or a previously grown lab diamond. The origin of the seed does not affect the quality of the finished stone — the new diamond grows from the seed's crystal structure, not from its material.

From this starting point, the two processes diverge significantly: HPHT uses extreme mechanical pressure and heat to replicate the geological conditions under which natural diamonds form. CVD uses chemistry — a gas plasma — to deposit carbon atoms onto the seed layer by layer, like a controlled version of crystal growth from vapour.

“Both processes grow real diamonds. The science is different — one uses pressure, one uses chemistry. The result is the same: a diamond crystal with the same structure, the same hardness and the same optical properties as one formed underground.”
— Yash Chandpara, Founder
02

HPHT — high pressure high temperature

HPHT diamond growth replicates the conditions deep within the Earth where natural diamonds form — extreme pressure and extreme temperature, applied to carbon in the presence of a metal catalyst.

  • 01
    The press
    A diamond seed is placed in a metal capsule with a carbon source (typically graphite) and a metal catalyst (iron, nickel or cobalt alloy). This capsule is placed inside a specialised hydraulic press.
  • 02
    Extreme conditions applied
    The press applies pressure of approximately 1.5 million PSI (pounds per square inch) — equivalent to roughly 100 km underground — and temperature of approximately 1,400–1,600°C. These conditions replicate the geological environment where natural diamonds form.
  • 03
    Carbon dissolves and migrates
    At these extreme conditions, the metal catalyst dissolves the carbon source. The dissolved carbon migrates toward the diamond seed, which is at a slightly lower temperature than the rest of the capsule.
  • 04
    Diamond growth
    At the seed, the dissolved carbon recrystallises as diamond — following the crystal structure of the seed. The diamond grows outward from the seed, layer by layer, over days to weeks depending on the target size.
  • 05
    The press is released
    Once the target size is reached, the pressure and temperature are reduced. The grown diamond crystal is removed from the capsule.
  • 06
    Processing and cutting
    The rough diamond crystal is then cut and polished using the same processes as any diamond rough — planning the cut to maximise yield and quality, then faceting and polishing to the specified shape and grade.
HPHT characteristics
  • May show metallic inclusions from the catalyst metal — typically tiny specks of iron or nickel alloy within the crystal
  • Strong growth sectors may be visible under specific UV light conditions
  • Produces diamonds efficiently at scale — a well-established commercial process
  • Available in larger sizes than CVD more consistently
03

CVD — chemical vapour deposition

CVD diamond growth takes a completely different approach. Instead of extreme pressure, CVD uses chemistry — a carbon-rich gas is broken down in a plasma chamber, and the carbon atoms deposit onto a diamond seed layer by layer, building the crystal from the bottom up.

  • 01
    The chamber
    A diamond seed (or array of seeds) is placed on a platform inside a sealed growth chamber. The chamber is evacuated and then filled with a carbon-rich gas — typically a mixture of methane and hydrogen.
  • 02
    Plasma activation
    Microwave energy or a hot filament is used to ionise the gas, creating a plasma. In the plasma, the gas molecules are broken down into their constituent atoms — releasing carbon atoms.
  • 03
    Carbon deposition
    The free carbon atoms settle onto the surface of the diamond seed. Because the seed has a diamond crystal structure, the carbon atoms bond in the same structure — adding a new layer of diamond crystal on top of the seed.
  • 04
    Layer by layer growth
    The process continues layer by layer over weeks to months. The diamond grows upward from the seed, adding new crystal one atomic layer at a time. The thickness of each layer is measured in nanometres.
  • 05
    Post-growth treatment
    CVD diamonds sometimes undergo HPHT treatment after growth to improve colour — this is a legitimate, disclosed process that converts certain colour-causing defects into colourless or near-colourless result.
  • 06
    Processing and cutting
    The grown diamond rough is cut and polished in the same way as any diamond — planning, cutting, polishing to the specified shape, carat weight and finish.
CVD characteristics
  • Generally produces cleaner stones with fewer metallic inclusions than HPHT
  • The layer-by-layer growth can create flat, parallel growth patterns visible under specific conditions
  • More energy-efficient than HPHT — lower pressure requirements
  • The primary method used at Fenora for gem-quality diamonds — cleaner, more consistent results
04

HPHT vs CVD — the complete comparison

How the two growth methods compare across every relevant dimension.

DimensionHPHTCVD
How it worksExtreme pressure and temperature — geological simulationGas plasma chemistry — layer-by-layer deposition
Pressure required~1.5 million PSIMinimal — near-vacuum chamber
Temperature1,400–1,600°C~700–1,200°C (lower than HPHT)
Growth timeDays to weeksWeeks to months
Energy useVery highLower than HPHT — more energy efficient
Typical inclusionsMay include metallic inclusions from catalystTypically cleaner — fewer inclusions
Size capabilityLarger sizes more readily availableGrowing capability but historically smaller than HPHT at scale
Post-growth treatmentNot typically requiredSometimes HPHT treated for colour improvement — legitimate and disclosed
IGI gradingSame scale as CVD and minedSame scale as HPHT and mined
Fenora usageAvailable in collectionPrimary method — preferred for gem-quality stones
Can you tell the difference in a finished ring?No — both are identical in appearanceNo
05

From rough to finished diamond — the cutting process

The lab grown rough diamond that comes out of either process looks nothing like the finished diamond in your ring. It is a crystal — often octahedral or cubic in form — that must be planned, cut and polished before it is a gem-quality stone.

  • 01
    Planning
    The rough crystal is examined to plan the cut. The planner decides which shape will be cut, what the finished carat weight will be and where to position the girdle to avoid inclusions or growth features in the most visible areas of the finished stone.
  • 02
    Sawing or cleaving
    The rough is divided where necessary — separating crystal sections that will become individual stones, or removing unusable material.
  • 03
    Bruting
    The rough shape is formed — for a round brilliant, the rough is rotated against another diamond to create the circular girdle outline.
  • 04
    Faceting — blocking
    The main facets (table, culet, 8 main crown facets, 8 main pavilion facets) are cut. These establish the overall proportions of the stone.
  • 05
    Faceting — brillianteering
    The remaining facets are cut — the star facets, the upper girdle facets, the lower girdle facets. For a round brilliant, this brings the total to 57 or 58 facets.
  • 06
    Polishing
    All facets are polished to a mirror finish. Polish quality is one of the components assessed in the IGI cut grade.
  • 07
    IGI grading
    The finished stone is submitted to IGI for independent grading. The graders assess colour, clarity, cut and carat weight, produce the clarity plot and issue the certificate.
06

Why Fenora uses CVD — the reasoning

Fenora's preference for CVD diamonds for gem-quality centre stones reflects specific quality and consistency advantages that matter for fine jewellery.

Why CVD is preferred at Fenora
  • Cleaner stones — CVD generally produces stones with fewer metallic inclusions than HPHT. This produces better clarity grades and more consistent stone quality
  • Energy efficiency — CVD requires significantly less energy than HPHT. Combined with renewable energy sourcing at partner facilities, CVD produces the lowest-footprint lab grown diamonds available
  • Colour consistency — CVD produces consistent near-colourless to colourless diamonds reliably at scale. Combined with post-growth HPHT treatment where appropriate, the colour range available is excellent
  • Quality predictability — CVD growth produces consistent results that allow more reliable sourcing to specific quality briefs
When HPHT is used at Fenora
  • HPHT stones are available in the Fenora collection when they represent the best available stone for a specific brief — a particular size, shape or quality combination where HPHT produces the better result
  • Every stone — HPHT or CVD — goes through the same IGI certification and the same Fenora quality assessment before being presented in a consultation
07

Lab diamond growth questions — answered

Common questions about how lab grown diamonds are made.

How long does it take to grow a 1 carat lab diamond?
In CVD: typically 4–8 weeks for a 1 carat rough crystal, depending on the growth parameters and equipment. In HPHT: typically 1–2 weeks. These are growth times — additional time is required for cutting, polishing and IGI grading before the stone is ready for setting.
Does the growth method affect the diamond quality?
The growth method affects certain characteristics — HPHT may show metallic inclusions, CVD may show growth sector boundaries. Both are graded on the same IGI scale. A VS1 clarity CVD diamond and a VS1 clarity HPHT diamond are equivalent quality grades on the certificate. Yash Chandpara discusses the specific stone characteristics during the consultation.
What is HPHT treatment after CVD growth?
Some CVD diamonds are treated with a brief HPHT cycle after growth to remove or reduce certain colour-causing defects (typically brown or grey tones that can appear in CVD growth). This is a legitimate, disclosed process — it is not a quality shortcut. The IGI certificate states when post-growth treatment has been applied.
Can the growth method be identified from the finished stone?
By a specialist gemological laboratory with specific spectroscopic equipment, yes. By standard equipment or the naked eye, no. The IGI certificate may state the growth method for certain stones. Fenora discloses the growth method of every stone during the consultation when relevant.
Is a larger lab grown diamond harder to grow?
Yes. Larger rough crystals require longer growth times and more precise control of growth conditions. This is why very large lab grown diamonds (5ct+ rough) are rarer and more expensive per carat than smaller ones — though still dramatically less expensive than equivalent mined stones.
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Book a free online consultation. Yash Chandpara explains the growth process of every stone presented in the consultation and identifies the method and any post-growth treatment.